Pa'La
132 E. Washington St.
Downtown Phoenix
602-368-3052
This restaurant is a temple to simple food in the form of a 24th Street bungalow. Or maybe it's more of a low-key barracks: There's a spartan rigor to the approach to ingredients. The very best and often the most obscure, commonly from Italy: olio nuovo, heirloom beans, Tuscan pecorino, high-end polenta, heady wines. There's also the best of what's locally available, including marine life like skate and scallops from Nelson's Meat + Fish, and sausage and steak from Arcadia Meat Market. Dishes have few parts. The food is solidly Italian, but not tied to any one region or regular classic preparations. Pa'La is small, almost half patio, and the heart of the eatery is a wood-fired oven. Beautiful breads emerge from its flames. Cast iron pans of colored zucchini frittata and crisp-skinned bluefish emerge, and once you bite in, the olden rusticity of the food washes you in a timeless warmth. You can taste the commitment in plates as humble as grain bowls, or as starters of bread, cheese, and cured meat. Seating is limited inside but takeout is always available.
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