Andreoli Italian Grocer
8880 E. Via Linda
North Scottsdale
480-614-1980
At his shop-meets-restaurant in north Scottsdale, Giovanni Scorzo has assembled a wide-ranging selection of Italian food, including groceries, pastries and sweets, as well as sit-down-style dishes. Though not cheap, Italian flours, olive oils, canned vegetables and other larder gems beckon from their shelves as you wait in line. Under the glass case up front, you'll find sweets such as chocolate-shaped tools, cannoli, and more regional Italian favorites, including sfogliatelle and torrone, both strong versions and about as good as you can eat in metro Phoenix. Most people come to Andreoli, though, to eat on-site. The dining room that spills away from the ordering counter is casual but retains a formality (and an element of timelessness) you'd experience during meals in Scorzo's native country. Though he hails from Calabria, Scorzo's cooking often reaches from far southern Italy into the north: Orecchiette with broccoli and sausage, Branzino Alle Erbe Fini and Pizza San Francesco di Paola. Salads, sandwiches and a fleet of pastas anchor a menu that prizes tradition. A white board revealing rotating specials tends to delve deep into the annals of Italian gastronomy. As with any Italian restaurant that looks back in time, the kitchen is at its best with regional specialties and plates closest to the earth or sea, such as the simple grilled squid with parsley and lemon.
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